As you know, I failed to get up into the mountains during our trip to Ecuador. We were just really focused on beach communities, large and small, and kind of lost track of time. However, I do have a reader named Maya who is currently spending time in Quito. Her trip down there, as you’ll read, went even less smoothly than mine. However she has learned and shared a ton since then. With her permission, I’ve consolidated each of her super candid and helpful posts into one long report that should be of interest to anyone still wondering about the mountain region and culture of Ecuador. She is a regular reader of this blog, so if you have additional questions, simply reply to this guest post and I’m sure she’ll get back to you. Enjoy!
Submitted on 2012/09/06 at 10:05 am
So, I started my trip from Toronto to Quito yesterday. After 6 hours in the airport, a delay due to a thunderstorm, THREE aircrafts having “technical problems” (should one ever consider flying American Airlines – seems their planes are falling apart – or they are lying to the passengers), I ended up in a Miami hotel (writing form the lobby right now) with a bunch of almost-worthless food vouchers, hoping that my rebooked flight today at 8 PM will actually take off. Thanks, American Airlines!
The Ecuadorians on the same flight proved to be extremely helpful, cheerful and patient people. The guy from the next seat took me “under his wing”, rebooked my flight, got the hotel and food vouchers in a record time, provided an interesting conversation – couldn’t wish for better company.
By the way, I read on the internet that many Americans are concerned about “leftist leanings” of Rafael Correa, President of Ecuador. Quite a few fellow passengers said that they are “Correistas” , that the president improves the infrastructure, builds roads, gives loans and scholarships to the indigenous population, so they can develop small local businesses and get themselves out of poverty, and in general takes the country in the right direction. It was nice to hear that a government does actually something right – for a change!
Submitted on 2012/09/07 at 11:47 am
After another delay of the rebooked flight I arrived to Quito last night, some 30 hours later than planned. Friendships were forged on board – I have phones and emails of 7 people from my original flight, all asked to let them know if I need anything and how I’m doing, and my impression is that they mean it!
I still remember how to speak Spanish, which helps.
First impressions from Quito: very busy, hustling and bustling city with gorgeous vistas of the mountains. Mount Cayambe covered in snow particularly pretty. What I could see so far is a mix of all architectural styles and colours stirred and shaken together, with some palms and vegetation thrown in, covered in a thin layer of pollution from fumes spewing buses.
I went to see the old town, with narrow, up and down streets; nice Plaza Grande with the Palace Presidential, palms and old colonial buildings. Old houses looking like nothing much have surprisingly nice patios; lots of small businesses of all kinds (plumbing supplies seem to be very popular!) and little “hole in the wall” food places. The hostal where I’m staying is rather shabby by Canadian standards, but very clean, and TIENE WIFI.
No time yet to see more – due to the elevation (and possibly diesel fumes) I’m panting like a fish out of water and have to take it easy. Will try coca tea, apparently good for many ailments…
I’m off soon to eat something, tomorrow planning to go to Cotacachi – a destination for many expats, about 2 hours or so from Quito. No pictures for now – I forgot the little cable connecting my camera with my laptop (#@%!!&).
Submitted on 2012/09/08 at 7:36 pm
I traveled from Quito to Cotacachi today. Panamerican is being widened and the whole country along it looks like one giant construction zone. Houses are build like layer cakes – first floor done, no roof as such – waiting for the second floor “when the kids grow up” or a relative working in US or Spain will send more money; big, ornate empty houses waiting for the said relatives to come back; more of the great majestic volcanos, huge greenhouses with roses – #2 Ecuadorean export; very dignified, good looking, polite and mature beyond their years indigenous children helping their parents; huge market in Otavalo with local handicrafts (I’m going to go back and buy as many wonderful tapestries as I can fit in my luggage) and more. Let’s face it – many things look shabby, dusty and unfinished, it’s a poor country, and I was very happy to have a really hot shower today. But – the people are just stealing your heart. After the shower I bumped into an American couple who live in the area. We went together for diner and they told me that moving to this little place in Ecuador from US was “the best thing they did in their life”. They will show me around next week. By the way, they agree with you that “Ecuador needs everything” and there are endless opportunities for business; they are developing a few, but “it’s not work, it’s fun”.
More to come – I hope I’m not boring you and everyone else to death!
Submitted on 2012/09/09 at 5:01 pm |
I’m seeing a real estate agent tomorrow, one recommended by Domenick Buenamici, who writes quite bit about Ecuador, as “decent”. I’m very curious what I’ll find out.
About food: it’s mostly bland and not bad, but unremarkable; with the great fresh “raw materials” available, someone should open a cooking school. Oh, I’m also going to check a coffee shop with REAL coffee tomorrow. Will report soon!
Submitted on 2012/09/13 at 4:59 pm
I’m still in the mountains, in Cotacachi. I’ve seen two houses in new developments – similar price, space, finishes, walking distance to the “town centre”, similar dirt roads; met a herd of cows going home at the first house, and a bunch of cute piglets playing on the road near the second. More to see tomorrow. It’s not Switzerland, yet the place, with its warts and all, starts to grow on me. Also, no chance for a house for 55K in Switzerland…
Yesterday I went to Otavalo, to the famous indigenous market, bought very pretty wool tapestries, and had a nice lunch at a mexican (?) restaurant. Figs with cheese for dessert – really good! I went by bus for the grand sum of $ 0.25. A local lady sitting next to me told me a lot about herself, and asked me questions that my close friends don’t ask – and yet, somehow it wasn’t irritating…
There is a drought, so we have water cut-offs for a few hours for the next few days. It’s dry and dusty, especially with construction going on everywhere – almost like in Toronto.
The “real” coffee shop is making a killing – you can get a cafe latte and read American Vogue!